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	<name>Set Up Your Own Wireless Home Network</name>
	<category>Articles</category>
	<author>
		<name>Subir Chowdhuri</name>
		<email>subir@desdevpro.com</email>
		<website>http://www.desdevpro.com</website>
	</author>
	<date>14 August 2009</date>
	<tags>
		<tag>Wireless Network</tag>
		<tag>home network</tag>
		<tag>Networking</tag>
	</tags>
	
	<intro>
	This guide will walk you through the process of planning, building, and testing a wireless home network. Although mainstream wireless networking has made amazing strides in the past few years, wireless technology and terminology remains a bit difficult for most of us to understand and implement. This guide will help small business networkers, too. 
	</intro>

	<para>
		<heading level='1'>Preparation</heading>
		<text>
			Wireless networks are easier to set up now than in the past,as I'll demonstrate in this article.
		</text>
		<endl/>
		<image position="left">wireless_home_nw02.jpg</image>
		<text>	
			You need a wireless router such as those from D-Link (www.dlink.com),
Linksys (www.linksys.com), and Netgear (www.netgear.com), along with an
adapter card for each node (PC or laptop on the network) that doesn't already
have wireless capability. Typically, notebook Wi-Fi adapters come in the form of
CardBus cards or PC Cards, whereas desktop PC adapters fit into PCI (Peripheral
Component Interconnect) slots. Buy devices that support WPA (Wi-Fi Protected
Access) encryption. 
		</text>
		<endl/>
		<text>
			Most wireless routers at this writing support Wi-Fi G (802.11g) at a theoretical
top speed of 54Mbps (megabits per second), as well as 11Mbps Wi-Fi
(802.11b). Some router/adapter sets use proprietary technology to reach
faster speeds. A recurring PC Today article, 'The Hot Spot' (this month on
page 65), often features more information on Wi-Fi, including the upcoming
802.11n. Before you install anything, write down the settings of your existing Internet connection and network, if you have one. Your ISP can supply the Internet settings, including whether
your connection uses a static (preassigned) or dynamic (changes at every
connection) IP (Internet Protocol) address, such as 192.168.128.11, or static
or dynamic PPPoE (Point-To-Point Protocol over Ethernet). By default,
your router should use a protocol such as DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration
Protocol) to convert the single IP address by which other computers on
the Internet know yours, called its WAN (wide area network) address, to
multiple IP addresses (LAN [local-area network] addresses), which your nodes
call each other.
		</text>
		<endl/>
		<text>
			
			If you already use a router, switch, or hub to control a wired LAN, access
its settings. In my old D-Link DI-704 switch’s case, I started my Web
browser and typed http://192.168.0.1 into its Address bar. I entered my
username and password and then wrote down these settings:
		</text>
		<code>
WAN IP address 192.168.128.2
Subnet mask 255.255.255.0
Default gateway 192.168.128.1
DNS servers 207.91.5.20, 207.91.5.252
		</code>
		<text>
			If you don’t currently use a router but have broadband (which comes through
your computers’ LAN ports via Ethernet cable), your OS may also give you
some of this information. In Windows XP click Start, select Control Panel, and
double-click Network Connections. Double-click Local Area Connection.
Scroll down to Internet Protocol (TCP/ IP) and double-click it to find settings
like the ones above.
		</text>
		</para>
	<para>
		<heading level='1'>Router Setup</heading>
		<text>
			I set up an 802.11g WLAN (wireless LAN) with a D-Link DI-524 wireless
router and two WinXP computers on a home network fed by a Cisco DSL (Digital
Subscriber Line) modem. My nodes were a Gateway notebook with Intel's built-in
Wi-Fi G, as well as a desktop PC with Asus' WL-130g adapter in a PCI slot.
With a broadband connection, the wireless router will connect between the
modem and your computers. The modem connects to the router's uplink or WAN
port with an Ethernet cable. You should temporarily run a second Ethernet cable
between one of the router's LAN ports and a PC; this wired connection will let
you configure the router and access the Internet until the wireless network is running
correctly. 
		</text>
		<endl/>
		<text>
Although I don't have room to go into other setups here, such as
a WLAN with a shared dial-up Internet connection, your router's instructions
should discuss them. Next, I entered my new router's settings
menu by typing http://192.168.0.1 into my browser and typing admin as
the username. I pressed ENTER to proceed because D-Link hadn't set a password
on the router at the factory. The first page of the DI-524's administrative
settings is the Wizard page under the Home tab. 
		</text>
		
		<text>
			(Most of the settings you’llplay with fall under this same tab.) I clicked Run Wizard and Next. I set a new password here to protect my router's browser-accessible settings from
hackers. Mix letters and numbers in your password, as well as spaces and non-alphanumeric
characters if your router will accept these. Write your password down
and then click Next when you're done. Next, I set my Time Zone and
clicked Next again. After my router detected the Internet connection, I
chose Static IP Address from a list of connection types. (Your setup procedure will
vary if your connection uses dynamic IP or PPPoE.) I clicked Next again and
found five blanks waiting for the IP addresses and settings I gathered from
my old router (or the ones from your ISP or OS). These included the WAN IP
Address (the static IP address my ISP assigned me), WAN Subnet Mask, WAN
Gateway Address (or default gateway), Primary DNS (Domain Name System)
Address, and Secondary DNS Address. I double-checked each address's numbers
and periods and clicked Next. 
		</text>
		<endl/>
		<text>
		Moving onward, I named my new
wireless network in the SSID (Service Set Identifier) field. Next, I chose a
channel from the drop-down menu. Just  like the channels on broadcast television, a
WLAN's channels correspond to various frequencies. (802.11g and 802.11b both use
the 2.4GHz part of the spectrum.) I chose channel 1. Write down the exact
SSID and channel you chose because you'll have to type these in on each computer
to connect it to your new network. If your wireless network is slower than it
should be later on, check to see if other 2.4GHz devices such as microwaves, cordless
phones, or even baby monitors might be interfering with your network. Changing
the channel might help, as might moving antennas or obstructions. Click Next.
		</text>
		<endl/>
		<heading level="2">Encryption</heading>
		<text>	
			You'll want to enable the best encryption your wireless network
can handle. Otherwise, anyone with a wireless adapter nearby will be able to
use your Internet connection and maybe even hack your computers. However,
I skipped encryption very temporarily during setup because D-Link's wizard
only let us choose WEP (Wired Equivalent Privacy) at this point.
The best security protocol for home users right now is WPA, aka WEP with
TKIP (Temporal Key Integrity Protocol) and other names. In order to use it, every
wireless device on your network must support WPA. Because the previous
standard, WEP, is fairly easy to crack, it's worth buying network gear that supports
WPA. I left WEP disabled and clicked Next and Restart.
		</text>	
		
		<image>wireless_home_nw03.jpg</image>
		<text>
			My home WLAN (wireless local-area network) looked like this. A phone line brought Internet access to my DSL modem, which connected to my wireless router's uplink port with an Ethernet cable. That was the end of my wires, however. All data transmissions between the router and
my computers' wireless adapters were radio waves.
		</text>
		<endl/>
		<text>
			After my DI-524 router rebooted itself, saving the settings from the
wizard, I logged in again through my browser with the Admin username
and the new password I'd set. Under the Home tab, I clicked the Wireless
button. Next to the Security entry, I selected the radio button marked
WPA-PSK (Preshared Key), which is the most practical form of WPA for
most home users. Next, I entered a passphrase and
clicked Apply. The passphrase you choose is important for two reasons.
First, you need to enter it as a password in the settings of every node on
the network.
		 </text>
		<endl/>
		<text>
Second, the router and wireless adapters will encrypt data transmissions
using the passphrase as part of the process, so the longer and more
complex it is, the better. If your router allows it, mix uppercase and lowercase
letters, numbers, nonalphanumeric characters, and spaces. Write down the passphrase
next to the SSID and channel you selected previously.
The Mode Setting is another option on this router setup page. If all devices on
your network can use 802.11g, set this to G Mode. If you anticipate that ordinary
Wi-Fi (802.11b) devices will need to access your WLAN, choose Mix Mode.
Some 802.11g networks, which typically run at a theoretical maximum of 54Mbps,
slow down all connections to 11Mbps or slower when an 802.11b device connects.
		</text>
	</para>
	
	<para>
		<heading level='1'>Adapter Setup</heading>
		<image position="left">wireless_home_nw_04.jpg</image>
		<text>
			Install your adapters according to their instructions. Next, set up each node on the
WLAN. Click Start, select Control Panel, and double-click Network Connections.
Right-click the appropriate connection and select Properties. Scroll the list in the
middle of the General tab and double-click Internet Protocol (TCP/IP). Make sure the
Obtain An IP Address Automatically radio button is selected and then click OK
twice to save your settings. You should now see a new Wireless
Network Connection icon in the System Tray. Click it for a list of WLANs in your
area. If yours isn't among them, click Refresh Network List or consult the
router's documentation. 
		</text>
		<endl/>
		
		<text>
			In the list double-click your WLAN to tell your adapter to connect to it. In the
Network Key field, type the WPA-PSK passphrase you made during the router
setup. Click Connect. If you're successful, a message in the System Tray will tell
you. You can then disconnect the temporary Ethernet cable between your PC and
the router. On a side note, my Asus PCI card's instructions told me to use its accompanying software to manage wireless functions instead of Windows, but this didn't work for us. If your adapter setup software gives you this choice, choose Windows unless this disables a particular function you need.
		</text>
		
		<endl/>
	</para>
	<para>
		<heading level='1'>Other Settings</heading>
		<text>
			If you didn't have a wired LAN before, run WinXP's Network Setup Wizard.
Click Start, select Control Panel, and double-click Network Setup Wizard.
Click Next twice. If the Wizard indicates there are disconnected LAN devices,
select the Ignore Disconnected Network Hardware checkbox and click Next again.
On the Select A Connection Method page, I clicked Other, Next, and then
the top option on the Other Internet Connection Methods page. (You might
need to choose a different option for your situation.) Click Next and type a brief
description of the PC, such as Bob's, in the appropriate field and click Next again.
		</text>	
		<endl/>
		
		<text>Choose a workgroup name, such as My WLAN, which will be the name of
the networked group of PCs. This will be the workgroup that your PCs will
"join" in order to see each other on the wireless network. Select Turn On
File And Printer Sharing, click Next, then Yes, and then Next again.
If you choose the Create A Network Setup Disk option in the next
dialog box and follow the instructions, it will make setting up the
other PCs easier. Otherwise, repeat the Network Setup Wizard on each
PC. When you’re done, click Finish and restart your PC.
		</text>
		<heading level="2">Sharing</heading>
		<text>
			To enable file sharing in WinXP, right-click Start and choose
Explore to open Windows Explorer. Next, right-click a folder or hard drive
letter, such as Local Disk (C:), you want to share in the left panel and select
Sharing And Security. Under the Sharing tab, click the link that begins, If You
Understand The Risk . . . . Next, choose the options you want, such as Share This
Folder On The Network and/or Allow Network Users To Change My Files.
Sharing a drive or folder will also share the subfolders below it.
		</text>
		<heading level="2">Firewall</heading>
		<text>
			If you use firewall software besides WinXP's, you'll probably need to tell the software to trust traffic on the LAN. In ZoneAlarm 6.0.667, as an example, double-click its icon in the System Tray. Click Firewall on the left and then select the Zones tab. Near the bottom of this tab, choose Add and IP Range. In the top IP Address field, type 192.168.0.1. In the second field, type 192.168.0.255. This range of IP addresses are universal to most home networks, typically denoting the PCs connected to them. Type a description for the rule, such as WLAN, and then click OK.
		</text>
	</para>
		<para>
			<heading level='1'>Further help</heading>
			<text>
				I admit this was a whirlwind tour. You may need to do a little more research if you hit a snag or if your network layout differs from mine, but your router's manual, CD, or online materials should help you.
			</text>
		</para>
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